Before using a nail gel, it’s important to check the label for the ingredients used, especially if you're prone to allergies. Most gel polishes contain acrylates, which are chemical compounds used as monomers in their uncured form. When you apply the gel, these acrylate monomers are in a liquid state. Curing the gel under a UV or LED lamp initiates a chemical reaction that turns the monomers into polymers, creating a solid and durable finish on your nails.

Proper curing ('drying' or 'hardening') of the nail gel once applied is crucial because unreacted monomers can cause sensitization, leading to allergic reactions. It’s these monomers—not the fully cured polymers—that pose a risk of skin sensitization. Therefore, ensuring that the gel is fully cured minimizes the presence of these reactive monomers.

Is there a link between nail gel and allergic reactions?

Acrylate monomers are small molecules that can easily penetrate the skin. When these monomers come into contact with the skin—especially if they are not fully cured—they can bind to skin proteins and trigger an immune response. This process is known as sensitization.

Once sensitized, your immune system recognizes the acrylate monomers as allergens, leading to allergic contact dermatitis upon subsequent exposure. Symptoms may include:

• Redness and inflammation
• Itching or burning sensations
• Swelling
• Blisters or hives around the nail area

These acrylate monomers are an essential part of nail gel. They are, however, harmless for most people when the gel is properly hardened.

Types of acrylates in nail gels and their sensitization potential

There are several kinds of acrylates, varying on a scale of low to high risk of sensitization. Be sure to check for the following ingredients on the product label of your nail gel product if you have known allergies or often experiment with new products.

1. HEMA (2-Hydroxyethyl Methacrylate)

• Sensitization potential: High

• Summary: HEMA is widely used for its excellent adhesion properties in nail gels. However, it has a high potential to cause sensitization, particularly with repeated or prolonged skin contact. Its small molecular size allows it to penetrate the skin easily, increasing the risk of allergic contact dermatitis (ACD).

2. HPMA (2-Hydroxypropyl Methacrylate)

• Sensitization potential: Moderate to High

• Summary: HPMA is structurally similar to HEMA but has a slightly larger molecular size, which marginally reduces skin penetration. Despite this, it still poses a considerable sensitization risk.

3. Trimethylolpropane Trimethacrylate (TMPTMA)

• Sensitization potential: Moderate

4. IBOA (Isobornyl Acrylate)

• Sensitization potential: Moderate
• Overview: IBOA contributes to the hardness and scratch resistance of gel polishes. It has lower skin penetration ability than HEMA and HPMA, which reduces its sensitization risk.

5. Di-HEMA Trimethylhexyl Dicarbamate

• Sensitization potential: Moderate to Low
• Overview: This is a larger, more complex molecule with reduced skin penetration capabilities, leading to a lower risk of sensitization compared to simpler acrylates. It's commonly used to impart flexibility to the cured gel.

6. Acrylates Copolymer

• Sensitization potential: Low
• Overview: Acrylates Copolymer is a high molecular weight polymer made from various acrylate monomers. Its large size minimizes skin penetration, substantially reducing the risk of sensitization. It's commonly used as a film-former and binder to enhance gel durability.

Did you know...

that most Korean nail gel brands have switched from HEMA as their main ingredient to the acrylates copolymers? There are even brands that only sell HEMA-free nail gels. With this shift, the Korea beauty industry is frontrunner in creating allergy-safe nail gels.

Discover our HEMA-free nail gel products

Take safety measurements if you have known allergies, or work with HEMA nail gels. Use professional nail tools or gloves when handling the gels.

Recommendations for safe use of nail gels with acrelytes

• Avoid skin contact: Always ensure that gel polishes do not come into contact with the skin during application. Use barrier creams or protective gloves if necessary.
• Proper curing: Ensure that gel polishes are properly cured under the recommended UV or LED lamps to minimize the presence of unreacted monomers.
• Patch testing: For individuals with sensitive skin or a history of allergies, perform a patch test before full application.
• Education and training: Nail technicians should be educated about the sensitization potentials of the products they use and trained in safe handling practices.
• Product selection: Consider choosing products formulated with lower-risk acrylates, especially for clients with sensitive skin.

Is product safety important for you?

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