What is HEMA?

HEMA (2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate) is a small methacrylate monomer used in many traditional gel polishes and nail systems to improve adhesion and flow. Due to its small molecular size and reactivity, HEMA is recognised as a sensitising substance and is frequently mentioned in the context of contact allergy in nail professionals and clients when products are misused or under-cured.

What does HEMA-free mean in this collection?

HEMA-free in this context means that HEMA is not intentionally included in the formulation according to the INCI list provided by the manufacturer. These gels may use alternative monomers (for example HPMA or other (meth)acrylates) to achieve adhesion and performance without HEMA.

HEMA-free does not mean “allergy-free” or that no acrylate is present. Other (meth)acrylates can also cause sensitisation. Good technique, correct curing and avoidance of skin contact remain important.

Why do some professionals choose HEMA-free gels?

• To build a HEMA-free service menu for clients who want to avoid HEMA.
• To work with systems that are formulated without one of the most frequently mentioned monomers in gel-related contact allergy.
• To differentiate between standard gel systems and HEMA-free alternatives in the salon.

How to use HEMA-free gel systems

1. Check the INCI list of each product to confirm that HEMA is not listed.
2. Follow the specific prep, application and curing instructions of the HEMA-free base, builder and colour gels.
3. Use a compatible UV/LED lamp and curing times as indicated by the manufacturer to minimise under-curing.
4. Avoid contact of uncured gel with the skin and sidewalls; work with thin, controlled layers.
5. Remove according to the system (soak-off or file-off) without aggressive over-filing of the natural nail.

What HEMA-free gels do and do not change

• They remove HEMA from the formulation, which may be relevant for clients with a known HEMA allergy (on medical advice).
• They do not remove all acrylates or all risk of sensitisation; other monomers are still present.
• Correct technique, lamp compatibility and hygiene remain essential, even in HEMA-free systems.

FAQ – HEMA-free gel products

Are HEMA-free gels automatically suitable for every client with nail allergies?
Not necessarily. Allergies can also develop to other (meth)acrylates. Clients with a history of allergy should follow the advice of their dermatologist or healthcare professional when choosing products.

Can I mix HEMA-free and standard gels in the same service?
From a technical point of view, you should keep to one system or follow the manufacturer’s guidance. Mixing HEMA-free and HEMA-containing products in layers reduces clarity about what is being used. Many salons prefer to keep HEMA-free services clearly separated.

How can I communicate HEMA-free services to clients?
Use clear, factual language such as “products formulated without HEMA” and explain that normal professional precautions still apply. Avoid promising that any product is completely without risk.